Radiator Fan Upgrade - SPAL Fans

[STDOUBT]

Probably need new fans soonish - they make noise when they do run.
I don't want to buy Chinesium, and thought SPAL would be nice. Can find deals on ebay not too much more costly than China "OEM"-type.
The thing is, SPAL fans only have 2 conductors - power and ground.
Would it be a Bad Idea to splice the low and high speed leads into the one power wire for each fan?

 

[oilhammer]

I'd think it might create some sort of issue with the control module, not sure. I'd maybe see how fast the fan goes, and you may be able to create some sort of different wiring strategy for them. You can wire fans in series to make them both run on a lower speed.

Seems like a lot of BS, though. I'd try and just find direct-fit fans. And I can tell you right now, I'd be shocked if SPAL fans are not made in China.

 

[jmodge]

If the price is competitive the quality most likely is also.
That’s where we’re at as a society with a lot of products. People fell in love with all the cheap Chinese stuff that flooded the market, now manufacturers are competing with China. It can be difficult to find quality

 

[dieseldonato]

Unless the vw module changes voltage going to the fan, ( @oilhammer ? ) hooking 2 wires that supply 12 volt isn't going to change the speed of the fan. If you just want it to run whatever speed then I'd advize installing diodes so the voltage doesn't back feed to the control module.

 

[noob_tl]

The OEM fans have a low value resistor connecting high and low, so I wouldn't be concerned about a direct connection between the two. Having said that, I'd just go with the direct fit as well. Running the fans on high all the time would be noisy.

 

[STDOUBT]

Thanks for the wisdom, guys.
I did manage to find a new Behr Hella Service fan for the driver's side (premium Chineoleum).
Have had to dink around with these since last week when both fans started running with key-ON only.
Cleaned up the battery fuse block of what teeny bit of corrosion it had, and now fans don't come on at all (A/C ON test).
I might have shorted something, as I left the battery hooked up during the cleaning and had sparks re-attaching the connector for the MIDDLE (#3) blade fuse... sometimes slow and painful is the best way to learn, right?

 

[AndyBees]

Have you checked the regular sized Green 30 amp fuse there on top of the battery....... the one on the left as you face the battery? The other two green fuses are for the ABS.

As Noob_ti said, the OE fan motors have a resistor for the low speed function. The high speed function is direct 12 volts. The resistor does burn out. Also, the brushes hang as they wear down.. road debris is generally the culprit. Those motors can be disassembled and cleaned...

 

[STDOUBT]

Yes Andy, thanks for that. I had been removing that 30A fuse as an "off switch" when the fans would stay on for 10 minutes after any key-ON event. Now, they don't come on at all, but the fuse still tests "good". My A/C compressor is also not kicking on of course.
When I get time, my next step is jumping the radiator temp switch harness to test for any fan function, but I'm beginning to suspect wire damage upstream of the FCM. Electrical is my weakest suit.
Hopefully I get this fixed by Summer or my Wife won't ride with me anywhere. We'll have to take her car, and guess who will be driving then?
If I'm able to refurb the fans I will for sure keep them around.

 

[J_dude]

I'm guessing you have this one bookmarked already, but here's the link for anyone else looking later:

Check your radiator/condenser fan operation NOW

Mk IV Manual AC electrical & cooling fan troubleshooting and repair Now is the time of the year to check that your pair of electric fans that provide cooling for both the radiator and air conditioner condensor are functioning. Do not needlessly age your Air Conditioning compressor by running it...

forums.tdiclub.com