CR170 Upgrade

[-:vw:-]

Yep, I know there's thread up here however I have a few quick Q's.

First, what is the deal with the price difference of the actual turbo?

Borg-Warner CR170 Turbocharger (CBEA)(CJAA)

This turbo is from 170 HP Common Rail TDIs in Europe. It's larger than the stock turbo on the CBEA/CJAA TDIs in North America, and will allow more aggressive fueling than the stock turbo while keep...

www.idparts.com

Borg Warner CR170 Stage 3 Turbo for MK5 & MK6 TDI - 03L253016G (AAR523)

Save $200, the CR170 Turbo upgrade for 2.0L CR TDIs includes a 1 Year unlimited mileage manufacture warranty. The CR170 turbo is the only true "plug and play" turbo for the CR140.

www.tunemyeuro.com

That is pretty considerable.

Second, as I understand it, in addition to the turbo and tune one needs the following:

TuneMyEuro, Inc. Landing Page – Cascade German Parts

www.tunemyeuro.com

TuneMyEuro, Inc. Landing Page – Cascade German Parts

www.tunemyeuro.com

This isn't on the JFettig thread but I have to believe it's needed:

Gasket Kit for CR170 Turbo kit (AAR615)

Gasket Kit for CR170 Turbo kit Includes: 12x Copper Pinch nuts 1x Dampner Gasket 1x Drain Pipe Gasket 1x EGR Gasket 1x Downpipe Gasket 1x DPFE Gasket 1x Exhaust Gasket 1x EGR Cooler Delete kit

www.tunemyeuro.com

Lastly is it recommended to swap out the oil supply and return lines with new? Does the new turbo require oil priming or an oil re-stricter of any sort?

Thank's.

 

[tjg]

I'm not sure what the reason for the price difference is, I went with the tunemyeuro one when I did stage 3 on my A3. It's a brand new turbo, he might just sell for a lower profit.

You will need the egt spacer and elbow.

And yes you'll want the install kit.

I bought a braided oil feed line from darkside developments, but was able to reuse the original feed line.

I pre lubed the turbo with two tubes of turbo oil and then disconnected the injectors and turned the engine over for a few seconds to build pressure just to be safe.
No restrictor is needed that I know of.

Here's my CR170 thread. It's on an A3, but basically the same.

A3 2.0 CR170 project

So I like the stage 2 rawtek/malone setup on my sportwagen so much that I bought a '13 A3 to go CR170 Stage 3 with. It's a titanium/sport package, so pretty rare for a TDI A3. Here's my shopping list. The green is what I've purchased already, the grey/lined out is stuff I no longer...

forums.tdiclub.com

 

[-:vw:-]

I'm not sure what the reason for the price difference is, I went with the tunemyeuro one when I did stage 3 on my A3. It's a brand new turbo, he might just sell for a lower profit.

You will need the egt spacer and elbow.

And yes you'll want the install kit.

I bought a braided oil feed line from darkside developments, but was able to reuse the original feed line.

I pre lubed the turbo with two tubes of turbo oil and then disconnected the injectors and turned the engine over for a few seconds to build pressure just to be safe.
No restrictor is needed that I know of.

Here's my CR170 thread. It's on an A3, but basically the same.

A3 2.0 CR170 project

So I like the stage 2 rawtek/malone setup on my sportwagen so much that I bought a '13 A3 to go CR170 Stage 3 with. It's a titanium/sport package, so pretty rare for a TDI A3. Here's my shopping list. The green is what I've purchased already, the grey/lined out is stuff I no longer...

forums.tdiclub.com

Perfect thank you!

 

[PRY4SNO]

I like how clean this thread is, bookmarked for future reference.

 

[calimustang]

Actually I have XMan CR170 turbo upgraded with billet impeller. its capable of 220-230 hp. I'm on Malone Stage 3 tune.

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=1491485734342151&id=264464090377661

 

[-:vw:-]

So... Update. I'm going to be moving forward with this. Also I've been doing a lot of reading on swapping this thing out and everyone seems to be going with a bottom extraction. I found this video can anyone tell my why the top extraction wouldn't be possible??

 

[tjg]

I can't see any way for the turbo to be taken out the top... there's no physical space to get it out that way. I considered it myself too.

I HIGHLY recommend removing (and deleting) the EGR cooler before taking the turbo out, it gives you A LOT more space. Additionally, I was able to manhandle it through the trans tunnel.... though if I were to do it again, I'd completely remove the passenger axle and drop it out between the motor and subframe.

 

[-:vw:-]

I can't see any way for the turbo to be taken out the top... there's no physical space to get it out that way. I considered it myself too.

I HIGHLY recommend removing (and deleting) the EGR cooler before taking the turbo out, it gives you A LOT more space. Additionally, I was able to manhandle it through the trans tunnel.... though if I were to do it again, I'd completely remove the passenger axle and drop it out between the motor and subframe.

Did you watch the video he pulls it out the side/top with the battery removed.

 

[tjg]

Youtube is blocked at work; I suppose it's a possibility to take it out that way... I'll watch it when I get home.

 

[mishkaya]

So... Update. I'm going to be moving forward with this. Also I've been doing a lot of reading on swapping this thing out and everyone seems to be going with a bottom extraction. I found this video can anyone tell my why the top extraction wouldn't be possible??

As far as I can tell, that must be a right hand drive car mas the brake master cylinder is on the right hand side. I don't see how you could possibly get the turbo out from the front without removing the master cylinder. It would be much easier and quicker to remove the passenger axle, which gives you plenty of space to work with.

 

[-:vw:-]

I was looking for the steering wheel too but couldn't tell for sure. Anyone tried dropping or even pulling the subframe? That'll open up some REAL room and I'm doing suspension as well...

 

[roadlust]

It can be taken out the top with the exhaust system and components removed.

 

[-:vw:-]

"I HIGHLY recommend removing (and deleting) the EGR cooler before taking the turbo out "

Regarding this. I was looking at it and it seems pretty straight forward while "I'm in there".

My question is do I need to buy anything extra or can I just use the blanking plates on the turbo manifold and egr port on the intake manifold???

I stared digging into it last night. I've got everything on the top pulled apart for the DPF and Turbo. The "D" electrical clips are a product of SATAN however, I jacked up the one going to the EGT on the turbo manifold pretty well

 

[mishkaya]

I believe you will need a hose barb splice for the heater core hoses. Should be available at your local hardware store

 

[-:vw:-]

What about the EGR tube connected to the intake manifold? Wont that be a massive leak if not removed and capped?

 

[mishkaya]

What about the EGR tube connected to the intake manifold? Wont that be a massive leak if not removed and capped?

I believe you are correct, car I had worked on had a race pipe installed, so it was not a concern.

 

[-:vw:-]

So... the kits for this are all over the place. There is one with the race pipe (DarkSide), which solves the intake port issue. However there are other delete kits with only two block off plates for the back of the engine when in reality you need three, two for the back and one for the intake?

Very confusing.

 

[tjg]

I went with the darkside kit, primarily because deleting the EGR valve on the intake makes it easier to install the CP3 fuel pump.

That being said, actually removing that EGR pipe from the engine bay is a whole different animal because it has a decent amount of things on top of it. On both my A3 and Sportwagen I just zip tied it out of the way until I feel like either digging it out properly or cutting it into 2 or 3 pieces to take out.

Additionally, installing the blockoff plate on the manifold is FAR easier to do on the bench than while it's in the engine bay.

Finally, removing that system will go a long way in reducing intercooler icing risks. Even when you have the EGR disabled with a tune, that pipe is still receiving exhaust gasses and transferring heat to the intake system.

And another note; Darkside will send you a straight coolant connector. I prefer using a 90 degree one.

 

[-:vw:-]

Diameter on the hose barb for the coolant and the remaining question.

Do i need a block off plate for the EGR port on the intake? If so is it the same size as the others?

Also something I forgot to mention above to those looking to tear into theirs. Bring your toolbox A GAME! VAG has used every damn bolt type possible securing this thing to the back of the engine. Alens, stars, tripple squares, flat heads, philips, you name it it's one there! ZERO consistancy.

 

[mishkaya]

Diameter on the hose barb for the coolant and the remaining question.

Do i need a block off plate for the EGR port on the intake? If so is it the same size as the others?

Also something I forgot to mention above to those looking to tear into theirs. Bring your toolbox A GAME! VAG has used every damn bolt type possible securing this thing to the back of the engine. Alens, stars, tripple squares, flat heads, philips, you name it it's one there! ZERO consistancy.

All block off plates are the same size as I recall. Cam't check on the hose barb size until I get back from work this evening.

 

[mishkaya]

According to the caliper, the outide measurement of the barbed fitting was .857", whatever that is supposed to correspond to...

 

[-:vw:-]

Without converting I'm going with 7/8" barb. I'm about 10 hours into this after two evenings worth of work. Everything on top is disconnected removed and the exhaust is now out. I have some interesting findings to report... Fist this is my EGR "Filter"???

What the F&$K is THAT? This car has had the "fix" according to the VIN lookup I'm not sure if that added or removed the "filter" but mine looks NOTHING like the others I've seen.

Second. Whatever clown worked on the car before I acquired it didn't put the axel shield back on... ?

Does anyone have a part number for it. It should probably be there... ?

To get everything out so far I have dropped the subframe. I would literally pay (within reason) to watch someone do it without dropping it...

It fought me several hours even with the added space.

 

[tjg]

That EGR pipe was on both my A3 and sportwagen... notice that it's different than what Rawtek shows in their guide.

Neither of my fixed vehicles had the axle shield either.

Both of my deletes were done without dropping the subframe. The second time went much more smoothly.

 

[-:vw:-]

Hahaha! So your telling me there is a axle shield bandit on the loose?

I'm really not sure what the EGR pipe is about but I guess if yours had it there is some rhyme or reason to things.

I ended up with two 1" brass elbows for the EGR coolant lines. I'm not sure how everyone got only one to work on theirs, with one it severely kinked the coolant hoses. I used two and another small piece of 3/4" coolant hose to form a "U" in the run.

Everything is now pulled except for the turbo. That should come out today through the tunnel.

My garage looks like a tool bomb went off. Stuff is everywhere.

 

[tjg]

I trimmed the coolant hoses so they'd fit without kinking

 

[-:vw:-]

That would be cheating sir.

 

[-:vw:-]

Whelp. Modfest 2020 is complete. A full list of everything done is:

• C170 Turbo
• Buzzken pipe.
• Malone Stage III Tune
• H&R Sport Springs
• Bilstein Touring Dampers with new front strut bearings
• 25mm Rear Sway Bar
• Jetta GLI steering wheel with paddles
• Black Forest wheel spacers 15mm front 20mm rear

I've got a few questions for you all regarding some codes I'm getting after doing the work and having the battery disconnected. I have no idea why on gods earth many of these are popping up:

1. Engine - 000175 - Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1 - Fairly certain I had vacuum lines on the n75 jacked up this should be good to go.
2. Trans - 28907 - No Communications with Cruise Control (Front) Distance Sensor - ???
3. Trans - 18258 - Powertrain Data Bus P1850 - 000 - Missing Message from ECU - Intermittent - ???
4. Trans - 01196 - Engine-Transmission Data Bus 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent - ???
5. Brakes - 01314 - Engine Control Module 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
6. Brakes -01325 - Control Module for Tire Pressure Monitoring (J502) 004 - No Signal/Communication
7. HVAC - 13701376 - Function Restricted due to Missing Message(s) U1111 00 [008] - -
8. Instruments - 12648448 - Function Restricted due to Missing Message(s) U1111 00 [008]
9. CAN Gateway - 01314 - Engine Control Module 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
10. CAN Gateway - 03272 - Control Module for Audio Interface 004 - No Signal/Communication - The radio was off???
11. Navigation - 1048629 - Aux IN Socket B1104 13 [009] - Open Circuit
12. Navigation - 1048660 - Function Restricted due to Missing Message(s)
13. Navigation - 1048669 - Tuner for Satellite Radio B11CF 53 [009] - Deactivated - Ok, I don't pay for this.
14. Driver Door - 68108 - Function Restricted due to Missing Message(s) U1111 00 [008]
15. Steering Assist - 03803 - Steering Angle Sensor for Steering Aid
16. Steering assist - 01314 - Engine Control Module 004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
17. Passenger Door - 68108 - Function Restricted due to Missing Message(s) U1111 00 [00

I've yet to actually drive the car due to some of these. I've primed the turbo by disconnecting the injectors and fired it up and let it idle for 15 minutes or so while I scratched my head on these code.

Car is still up on ramps so far no leaks anywhere in the system thank fully.

 

[-:vw:-]

Regarding the errors, just kidding, apparently putting the damn thing in drive made all of them clear out

So far so good runs well. Haven't beat on it yet as I want to give the turbo a few heat cycles first.

Question on the Buzzken. Has anyone gone with the CAT option. Curious if it helps with the odor at all

 

[tjg]

You might want to also look into a dogbone insert as I've heard it can help prevent the dogbone from breaking. I've heard it's a weak point

 

[-:vw:-]

I did the stage .5 (or whatever) from BFI when I had the Stage II tune.

We're good there . I hear a lot of complaints regarding the vibration is adds however I'm fine with it.

I suppose you could always make it a .25 or .15 and cut a leg or two off the insert