CR engine HPFP analysis

[kjclow]

The things you have listed are all basic unknowns of when or if it will break. I would be more concerned about engine mounts, front end repair, radiator mounts, etc, for a 2500 mile car with a salvage title that had the front corner crunched. Going to a salvage title typically requires damage in excess of ~75% of the value of the car. I know that varies by state and insurance company, but seems like a good rough estimate.

From my own experience, I parked our brand new (less than 9 months) 05 Corolla into a guardrail. It had less than 10K miles. Repair estimate came out to about 65% of the value of the car. Not enough to total it in North Carolina.

 

[Eljean]

Totalled...radiator, cowl, grill, bumper, fr left qtr pnl, hood, ac compressor, driver air bag and module, misc ..I imagine the owner worked with his insurance company and insisted it was totalled. Just guessing since it was so new.

 

[jonferns]

I think i'd go for it, if the price was right. Since the HPFP wouldn't be under warranty, I would definitely install a 2micron kit. The exhaust flap isn't a big deal, if it does get stuck some have had success in cleaning/lubing it, otherwise it is around $230 to replace.

 

[ATR]

High temp lube really seems to help keep the flap happy. Folks seem to apply the high temp łube every oil change.

 

[Eljean]

Thanks everyone... I thought he was too high $15k for a rebuilt..he didn't want to budge. He'll probably have someone who is not as familiar with the TDI woes snap it up. Hopeful it works out for them. To insure a rebuilt in Michigan is a PIA. I would have to switch insurance carriers. Just had a "gut" feel.
I did find another close by...has 55k on it...not a rebuilt...so I will get the warranty. Worth the peace of mind.
Should we install the 2micron kit anyway? it will void the warranty won't it?

first 25k was in Carmel, Indiana - couple doctors just wanted something new.
last 25-30k in Michigan - 3-4 trips to Fla, 1 to Colorado - has been garaged in Michigan last 2 winters...so, only driven May-Oct. Couple retired couple years ago...have a Toureg (gas - looking for TDI)...they want to downsize to 1 vehicle.

So...because it sat...should we install the 2micron or just ride it out?

Thanks again!

Eljean

p.s. my "adopted" son that just bought the 2009...has 175k on his...should he put the 2micron on?

 

[gloaming]

Yes, he should either do the 2micron kit or the CP3 kit (also from 2micron).

 

[Eljean]

and what about me...? should I take my chances and let the extended warranty run out...hoping their little "fuel" sample proves to be their fault?
does installing the 2micron or CP3 kit void warranty?
thanks again!

 

[kjclow]

I would not install anything until you pass 120k miles for the extended warranty. IIRC, there has only been one hpfp failure with 2-micron's kit but am unsure if how the replaced the pump.

 

[Mrrogers1]

I would not install anything until you pass 120k miles for the extended warranty. IIRC, there has only been one hpfp failure with 2-micron's kit but am unsure if how the replaced the pump.

Basic replace a few pieces of fuel lone, clean/replace the traps and filters and replace pump. There is a thread here on it, search, I'm sure you'll come across it.

and what about me...? should I take my chances and let the extended warranty run out...hoping their little "fuel" sample proves to be their fault?
does installing the 2micron or CP3 kit void warranty?
thanks again!

If you already had the misfueling guard installed and meet other requirements for warrant replacement, just ride it out. Once you are out, the 2Micron protection will without a doubt save serious money "IF" the HPFP fails on you.

Yes, he should either do the 2micron kit or the CP3 kit (also from 2micron).

To clarify, if he wants to do the CP3 retrofit, the 2Micron setup is required, at this time. Who knows what the future holds, Andrew is always working on something.

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk

 

[miniion26]

I would not install anything until you pass 120k miles for the extended warranty. IIRC, there has only been one hpfp failure with 2-micron's kit but am unsure if how the replaced the pump.

This. I have installed a 2Micron kit at 157000 miles. Would I have gotten the car at 55000, I would not do it until it reaches close to 120000.

 

[ATR]

I would not install anything until you pass 120k miles for the extended warranty. IIRC, there has only been one hpfp failure with 2-micron's kit but am unsure if how the replaced the pump.

IIRC that member simply replaced the pump, filters and either flushed the unfiltered fuel lines (lines that had metal particles) or replaced them. After the pump was replaced he was all good

This. I have installed a 2Micron kit at 157000 miles. Would I have gotten the car at 55000, I would not do it until it reaches close to 120000.

I'm going to have to agree with this as well. I'm going to likely wait until I get extensive engine & turbo mods or stay stock and reach 110k.

 

[ericy]

This. I have installed a 2Micron kit at 157000 miles. Would I have gotten the car at 55000, I would not do it until it reaches close to 120000.

For my 2014, the last I heard was that this warranty extension on the HPFP does not apply. I will probably install one when the normal warranty runs out. The thing I do not know is whether this is considered powertrain (i.e. 60K), or not (in which case the warranty is only 36K)?

 

[CEaton]

2014 Sportwagen tdi, 30628 miles....currently sitting stranded on the side of the highway waiting for road side assistance to pick it up in the morning, symptoms at the sudden shutdown indicate hpfp.

This is the second time this year that the pos has left me stranded, first time was intercooler icing leading to a hydro lock.

Just awaiting a buy back....luckily I still have my trusty 1995 Toyota T100 with 190k miles on it to drive around while my new car is in the dealer.....again.

I've never hated a car until this one.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

Hey guys, I didn't have time to read all 140 pages of posts, but I have a question regarding checking the pump. I'm due for a timing belt soon, and know that the HPFP is located in that general region. Can I pull the pump apart and check for wear and reassemble? Will I need to replace any seals, or are o-rings reuseable? Or is it sealed with some sort of paste? I have 110k miles on this baby, and since she has a salvage title, there will be no buy-back or warranty mercy. I'm entirely on my own with this car. I really love it and want to keep it going for a long long time. Are there any filters out there that can be placed AFTER the HPFP to protect the injectors? Only ones I found were return filters that protect the tank and lift pump. I am not very worried about those, as those tiny metal flakes will not hurt a lift pump and will be caught by the fuel filter before it hits the HPFP again. But those injectors are expensive...

 

[STRANGETDI]

Hey guys, I didn't have time to read all 140 pages of posts, but I have a question regarding checking the pump. I'm due for a timing belt soon, and know that the HPFP is located in that general region. Can I pull the pump apart and check for wear and reassemble? Will I need to replace any seals, or are o-rings reuseable? Or is it sealed with some sort of paste? I have 110k miles on this baby, and since she has a salvage title, there will be no buy-back or warranty mercy. I'm entirely on my own with this car. I really love it and want to keep it going for a long long time. Are there any filters out there that can be placed AFTER the HPFP to protect the injectors? Only ones I found were return filters that protect the tank and lift pump. I am not very worried about those, as those tiny metal flakes will not hurt a lift pump and will be caught by the fuel filter before it hits the HPFP again. But those injectors are expensive...

connect to HPFP before and after to collect any potential damage:

http://2microntech.com/contain-flow-kit

or change your HPFP to a CP3 pump.

 

[ksing44]

Hey guys, I didn't have time to read all 140 pages of posts, but I have a question regarding checking the pump. I'm due for a timing belt soon, and know that the HPFP is located in that general region. Can I pull the pump apart and check for wear and reassemble? ...

...or change your HPFP to a CP3 pump.

Many of us have done exactly that (see thread below). With a salvage title, that is what you should do IDoSeaDoo. It makes sense to do it at the same time as the timing belt.

CP3 fuel pump upgrade thread

 

[GoFaster]

... Can I pull the pump apart and check for wear and reassemble?..

The short answer is "no". These pumps have to be assembled in clean-room environments and there is no reasonable possibility of doing that in any normal DIY environment. There is no "inspecting" this pump.

Best bets are - depending on how attached you are to the car - either drive it until it blows up, or install the 2Micron supplementary filtration, or toss the CP4 and replace it with a CP3, which others have already mentioned.

 

[bizzle]

Should be able to look inside the fuel filter and see if there are any warning signs, but you have to replace the filter and shouldn't just look inside and close it back up.

 

[soltesz]

For those of us sitting on our TDIs waiting for a buyback - what's worse for the pump, to leave it sit for months waiting for the buyback or to start it up every month or so?

 

[PlaneCrazy]

For those of us sitting on our TDIs waiting for a buyback - what's worse for the pump, to leave it sit for months waiting for the buyback or to start it up every month or so?

We've already ordered our buyback replacement ('17 Golf TSI Trendline wagon). Until then we're driving our TDI. We have no choice we need the car. But we're limiting it to my wife's daily commute and errand running, and taking my TSI whenever we need to any more than a few km (she works 10 km from home).

I'm less worried about the pump (or maybe I should be?), more worried about racking up unneeded kms that will reduce the value.

Pity because the car has been near flawless.

 

[flyboy320]

Considering the TSI as a replacement for our TDi. Can anyone sum up how the TSI engine feels/drives compared to the TDi?

 

[oilhammer]

Considering the TSI as a replacement for our TDi. Can anyone sum up how the TSI engine feels/drives compared to the TDi?

Since they are usually broken, I'd say not very well. The 2.0L turbo direct injected gas VAG engine is in my professional opinion a piece of junk. And that is what the "new" 1.8L is based off of. I'm sure they've made some improvements, but it would not be my first choice. I'd keep your diesel.

I just finished up yet ANOTHER rear main seal job on one. And this one was in an Audi A4 quattro, which is a whopping 11 hours of labor to replace.

The "new" 1.8L engine is no more powerful than the "old" 1.8L engine, and likely not going to be nearly as durable. I suppose they drive OK, they are in a Volkswagen after all.

 

[kjclow]

From my experience with rental cars: The TSI is the closest of any gasser to the feel (low end torque) of the TDI. You get that off the line surge and also when needing the extra power for passing. The TSI gives a much broader power range so you don't run out of teh top end as quickly but that's usually not an issue in a rental since they are almost all automatics. What I really missed was the engine rumble.

 

[flyboy320]

Thanks guys, it's gonna be a tough decision, I love my TDI

 

[PlaneCrazy]

From my experience with rental cars: The TSI is the closest of any gasser to the feel (low end torque) of the TDI. You get that off the line surge and also when needing the extra power for passing. The TSI gives a much broader power range so you don't run out of teh top end as quickly but that's usually not an issue in a rental since they are almost all automatics. What I really missed was the engine rumble.

I on the other hand love the smoothness of the TSI! But I concur with the rest of your statement. Torque is a bit higher than a BEW PD (177 for the PD, 185 for the TSI with manual, 199 for the TSI automatic), and starts a tad lower. Having owned a BEW for too short years (the car was totaled when 2.5 years and 110k km old), the launch is similar but it doesn't run out of breath shy of 3000 rpm.

I can't speak to long-term dependability as I've only owned the car for just over a year, all I can say is that in 34k km so far it's been flawless. And since a compact wagon is really the only car that suits our requirements, we ordered a TSI wagon for the TDI buyback. In Quebec, Golfs and Golf wagons are everywhere.

 

[calimustang]

If anyone needs an CP4 to get before the buy back, let me know.

I got CP3 installed and loving every moment of it.

 

[ATR]

Considering the TSI as a replacement for our TDi. Can anyone sum up how the TSI engine feels/drives compared to the TDi?

Since they are usually broken, I'd say not very well. The 2.0L turbo direct injected gas VAG engine is in my professional opinion a piece of junk. And that is what the "new" 1.8L is based off of. I'm sure they've made some improvements, but it would not be my first choice. I'd keep your diesel.

I just finished up yet ANOTHER rear main seal job on one. And this one was in an Audi A4 quattro, which is a whopping 11 hours of labor to replace.

The "new" 1.8L engine is no more powerful than the "old" 1.8L engine, and likely not going to be nearly as durable. I suppose they drive OK, they are in a Volkswagen after all.

The first & second generation of the 2.0 TSI/FSI had their fair share of issues. The HPFP cam follower of the 1st generation, which if changed every 40-60k miles shouldn't cause any problems.

The second generation had issues with leaking water pumps, timing chain tentioners failing and the rear main seal failing.

The 3rd generation ea888 seems to have been very reliable thus far. The only issues that I have heard so far were from the early years (2015 and some early '16s) in the form of cam failures and turbo failures. VW did a good job of fixing or replacing the parts. There's a current recall for the fuel system pump of the 15-16 models.

BTW, a familiar friend of the TDI community has a fix for the rear main seal...
http://www.excelerateperformance.com/news/2-0t-tsi-rear-main-seal-solution

I've had my ears open for any major issues with the mk7 at the golf mk7 forums. Again... Nothing major so far.

 

[PlaneCrazy]

There's a current recall for the fuel system pump of the 15-16 models.

It's actually for the suction pump of the evaporative emissions capture system. It's been causing difficulties completely filling the fuel tank among others. I suspect I have the problem because I can, if being careful, squeeze another 10 L in the fuel tank. I have the recall letter, but haven't acted on having it fixed yet.

Mine missed the camshaft recall as it was built after the cutoff date for problems.

 

[ATR]

It's actually for the suction pump of the evaporative emissions capture system. It's been causing difficulties completely filling the fuel tank among others. I suspect I have the problem because I can, if being careful, squeeze another 10 L in the fuel tank. I have the recall letter, but haven't acted on having it fixed yet.
Mine missed the camshaft recall as it was built after the cutoff date for problems.

Hmm, makes me wonder if they fixed that for the 2017's...

 

[McGuirk]

Since they are usually broken, I'd say not very well. The 2.0L turbo direct injected gas VAG engine is in my professional opinion a piece of junk. And that is what the "new" 1.8L is based off of. I'm sure they've made some improvements, but it would not be my first choice. I'd keep your diesel.

Love the dose of reality. I laughed a bit. Keeping the TDI!