1999 Beetle Front Axle Nut torquing procedure

bugowner

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Hi
I have read quite a few posts on how to torque the front axle nuts on my Beetle. I am somewhat confused about what to do exactly.Torquing to 148 lb-ft and reversing 180 degrees, rolling on ground car forward 1/2 wheel circumference, then lining up marks. I have no problem doing this and I understand why the wheels need to be moved etc but as I am not a mechanic and I have had issues with wheel nuts before on another vehicle, I would like to get some clarification.
What should the final torque be when all of the above is done? I know that having it sufficiently compressed is important for bearing performance and safety. Can anyone give me some direction on my concerns.
Thanks in advance...
Bugowner
 

Powder Hound

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Check this thread: https://forums.tdiclub.com/index.ph...eel-play-horizontal-and-vertical-play.454093/ Note that the procedure does NOT have you roll the car on the ground, just rotate it while it is still in the air. Putting weight on this wheel bearing without it being properly torqued will ruin the bearing. As far as the final torque, I don't know what it is. Turning the last 90 degrees will be interesting with a normal 1/2 inch breaker bar and will be sufficient.

Also, remember that search is your friend.

Cheers!

PH
 

bugowner

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PH
I read all the articles you have identified. Torquing a nut to any torque and then backing it off 180 degrees and then turning the nut 60 degrees cannot possibly get back to the initial torque.
That is why I am totally confused. I believe that it would not get you back to anywhere near the 148 lbs-ft. Lucky if it was even 100 lbs-foot.
I have never torqued axle nuts to that low a number before. I hope VW have a better approach than this or they are just not serious about supporting the DIYers. I believe that these nuts and how they are torqued is a very serious part of safety. I want to make sure that I get the process correct. Search is what created my confusion in the first place!
Robert
 

Vince Waldon

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The initial torque/back off is not to set a torque value but to pre-load the bearing a known amount... it's all about pre-load.

This is a standard way to set bearings properly... personally I'm grateful VW details the process carefully... and in the interests of safety I tend to do exactly what the manufacturer tells me to do in situations like this. :)
 

bugowner

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So do I understand that the procedure is specifically that which has been set out by VW. So the procedure, originally from VW is as shown by mrrhtunero and set out below:

Initial torque is 200 NM (148 ft-lb).
Loosen nut 1/2 turn (180º).
Turn wheel 1/2 turn (180º).
Tighten nut to 50 NM (37 ft-lb).
Tighten nut an additional 1/6 turn (60º).


Is that correct?
 

Vince Waldon

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Probably worth tracking down the applicable page (40-14) in the Bentley Service Manual because there are two very different procedures depending on the specific wheel hub ("modified" vs "non-modified") the vehicle has. One procedure is as you've stated except lists the final turn as 30 degrees / 1/12 turn, the other procedure is a simple 90 NM + 1/4 turn.

The two different hub styles are also different in that one requires a VW-specific spline sealant while the other does not... and one requires the wheel to be touching the ground but not weight-bearing, helper applying the brakes.
 

bugowner

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Probably worth tracking down the applicable page (40-14) in the Bentley Service Manual because there are two very different procedures depending on the specific wheel hub ("modified" vs "non-modified") the vehicle has. One procedure is as you've stated except lists the final turn as 30 degrees / 1/12 turn, the other procedure is a simple 90 NM + 1/4 turn.

The two different hub styles are also different in that one requires a VW-specific spline sealant while the other does not... and one requires the wheel to be touching the ground but not weight-bearing, helper applying the brakes.
Yes, I will track down the Bentley page. I can get a borrow of one, I think. Thanks for that information.
Robert
 

bugowner

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The Bentley Book, I managed to get, says the following, on page 40-8 & 40-9:

Vehicle on its wheels.
Tighten 12 point nut to 300NM (221 ft-lb) and then loosen one full turn.
Tighten to 50NM (37 ft-lb).
Using a torque angle measuring wrench, tighten 1/12 of a turn (30 degrees)

I acquired a Chilton and it says exactly the same thing.
So, I guess at least two agree so it must be so.

Apart from these two Service Manuals, the information floating around seems to be quite confusing. Maybe the actual VIN # is needed to get it more accurate.
 

bugowner

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Get torque mu ltiplier.
I am not a mechanic and have no idea what a 'torque multiplier' is. Could you expalin what it is?
I have no problem getting to the Torques up to 250 ft-lb but what I want is what is the procedure to Torque front wheel nuts on my 1999 Beetle.
 
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Mongler98

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It goes between your torque wrench and the socket. It's a set of gears basically. Typical cheap one is 3:1 meaning you divide your target by 3 and set that to your torque wrench. Harbor freight sells one. 250 is way to much for your axle nut. I thought it's like 115 to 135 but I'm not sure on the beetle. Also it's easier to push or pull the tool.
 

bugowner

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Thanks. I agree with you that 200+ is way too much for the Axle Nuts on my Beetle. I cannot believe that Bentley and Chilton both have the 221 ft-lbs in their manuals. I know that the nut is backed off, etc etc, but that initial torque sure stretches something, I would think. I sure would like to know what VW actually do in their service bays, when they are presented with this job.
Thanks again for the help...
 

Mongler98

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98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
If that's what the manual says, than that is correct.
With the torque multiplier you would only have to torque it to 73. You still need a long pole to hold the end of the tool against the ground but your side is less
 
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